KNOCK KNOCK KNOCK.
I had drifted off in my front passenger seat not 4 hours prior. It was before 6am and the ever lightening sky was shining through my fogged up windows. Through my own exhaled condensation I could see a dark shadow, and although it was smiling, I did not see it as pleasant. He was too awake for this time of morning. He asked if I was getting up. I groaned and declined. Maybe later I would regret missing out on a Northumberland sunrise on England’s north-east coast, but right now I just wanted to go back to sleep. Yesterday had been long; the night not long enough.
Brendan persevered without me.
Upon the cliffs is the 14th-century Dunstanburgh Castle. From our campsite on the beach you could only really see the Lilburn Tower.
Let’s go to Brendan Clayton for his thoughts:
“This is Dunstanburgh Castle which I had the pleasure of waking up for a lovely sunrise there last week. There wasn’t many clouds in the sky above the castle to give me the chance to capture the most epic sunrise shot but it did cast some nice light on the castle so it was worth the early morning wake up.”
About an hour later I received another tap on the window. It was time to head over to the Holy Island of Lindisfarne. I had no choice but to wake myself up.
Holy Island is only accessible via car at low tide. The causeway had just become safe to cross, and would be useable until 13:50 – plenty of time to explore the island. We parked at the main car park and were amongst the first people there. We had porridge and tea out of the back of Brendan’s car. The sea air was delicious.
The village of Holy Island looks fairly old fashioned. If it wasn’t full of parked up modern cars, you could imagine feeling like you were walking through the early 20th Century. Head east out of the village and you will see Lindisfarne Castle – it’s not hard to miss.
Brendan found it amazing to see some birds on a sheep.
As is the norm in these Covid Times, this National Trust owned castle is not open to explore. Wandering around the foot of the rock it stood on was the best we could do.
Behind the castle we found a Victorian lime kiln.
They haven’t been used for over a hundred years, but these kilns are amongst the few that are being actively preserved.
Inside reminded me of the Chamber of Secrets. No large snakes in here though.
The beach here is pebbled, so obviously, people make these cairns. I always have a strong urge to knock them all down. I suppose that’s disrespectful though…
In the distance we spied a strange white pyramid. We headed over to the Emmanuel Head Beacon.
From here we walked through the dunes back to the village, where I enjoyed a bacon and mushroom batch with brown sauce at 1st Class Food. It was so good, I could have bought another. The little sparrows fluttering from table to table were not so scared of people.
The car park was now absolutely rammed. It was a good time to leave. Next stop: Berwick-upon-Tweed – England’s most northerly town.
In the centre you’ll find Castle Gate car park which is FREE to use. A rare find. It’s a large car park but still, it was pretty full. Brendan and I had to share a spot.
Why? Because someone had let out a load of bastards like these…
Knobheads.
We headed straight to the town wall that skirted the car park.
The sign said “Please be careful – surfaces aren’t likely to have been sanitised recently.” And we’d been so careful all trip! Are they not taking the pandemic seriously up here???
Meg’s Mount offers great views of the town, the Tweed and the Royal Border Bridge.
Berwick’s town walls were originally built in the 14th-century by King Edward I after he captured the city from Scotland. The walls were then refortified and upgraded in the 16th-century and those were what we were walking on today.
Best not to fall/climb into these chambers for a photo with the cannon, as there were no visible ways out!
Spot my Corsa.
Brendan then spied a lighthouse. If he were a moth, lighthouses would be his flame.
Rumour had it a pod of dolphins had been spotted that morning from the lighthouse. As Brendan snapped the lighthouse, I hungrily surveyed the waves. To no avail.
An old man with one tooth approached me and told me something, and that is all I can say. His most northern of northern English accents was utterly unfathomable. Either that or he was drunk. It’s a possibility.
The weather was starting to get miserable. We had expected it. So it was time to find an indoor activity to do. Luckily, there was a castle in the vicinity that was open to the public.
Bamburgh Castle. A fort is believed to have stood on this hill for the past 1,600 years. The castle you see today is Norman-built, though heavily restored in Victorian times.
£14 will get you inside. You can save £3 if you book in advance. Usually I’m a Scrooge and wouldn’t pay that, but the site is so big and accessible that it’s worth it. I suppose.
MASKS ARE A MUST. And bags MUST be worn on your front. So you’re not a clumsy arse and knock things over.
The roof of the King’s Hall reminded me of the Great Hall at Hogwarts. Couldn’t see the rain lashing the roof though.
Welcome to my crib. I wish.
The Armstrong family who own it still live here. Bamburgh Castle is one of the largest inhabited castles in the country. I wish I had been born into such riches.
The Cross Hall. Where one would suppose one might enjoy a cigar?
Medieval facemasks.
The room I was most attracted to.
In the dungeons, I met a Bond Baddie.
Once you’ve explored the house without waking up the owners, you can check out the archaeology and aviation museums in the grounds, as well as the Victorian stables. There are also the views.
Good luck with that.
After leaving Bamburgh Castle we headed to Alnwick for some tea. Brendan and I wanted to explore Alnwick Castle’s grounds – as they were the setting for Hogwarts exterior shots in the first two Harry Potter films. But tbf, we were both conked out. And it was late. We both had long drives ahead.
Oh well. It gives me a reason to return.
#VidOnTour 