If you’ve ever explored Thailand, you’ve probably visited the north. And after seeing Chiang Mai, you’ve almost certainly visited Pai. This small town in the mountains is about 80 miles and 2 and a half hours away from Chiang Mai, and is famous for its natural spas, stunning landscape and its shroom-shakes.
It was mid-March and the north of Thailand was in lockdown. Just outside Pai, our bus pulled over and all non-locals had to get out and have their temperature taken. Thankfully, we didn’t have coronavirus – and nor did any of the passengers we’d shared a tightly packed bus with for over 2 hours.
Like Chiang Mai, Pai draws in travellers in northern Thailand like a lamp attracts a moth, and although the coronavirus pandemic had emptied the country of most tourists, foreigners were definitely more apparent here.
That would change over the next three days…
For now though, most of the shops were still open and most of the excursions still running.
Prices were again pretty decent! Andy bought some new shirts and some new face masks whereas I bought pancakes and beer.
In Pai, we stayed at the Bodega Party Hostel (of course). Unlike other Bodegas, there is no pool – disappointing as there is definitely space for one. However, there is a pretty garden that runs up to the Pai River, with chilling areas and hammocks. There is a hostel called Circus, with a pretty famous swimming pool – one of those ones with a bit of ledge missing so the water seemingly falls away into the stunning scenery behind. If you’re an Instagrammer, or someone who simply loves to pose nonchalantly in front of vistas, then head over to the Circus.
On your walk around Pai, make sure you cross a bamboo bridge…
…where you can marvel at the brown water.
As the day was drawing on, Andy and I decided to pay a local guy to take us to Pai Canyon – a great place to enjoy a sunset.
We were hopeful that the cloud would soon clear.
Pai Canyon is pretty cool to visit. The sandy cliff top causeways creep out through the tree canopy and offer some pretty severe drop-offs. Despite the fact Andy and I had utterly inappropriate footwear (sandals and flip-flops), we had a little hike.
It was slippy. It was like a beach in the sky.
At the Canyon that day was a stereotypical tourist, with a bum-bag, socks and flip flops and a vest. You’d be mistaken for thinking he was an American.
But no, he was a Brit.
The views up here are renowned, but as I pointed out in my Chiang Mai blog, we had visited northern Thailand during the Burning Season, when locals burn fields and forests to prepare land for farming and to search for mushrooms. It’s illegal, but people still do it. The result is the air quality is poor, and the horizon is always smoky.
Note to self: DON’T VISIT THAILAND DURING THE DRY SEASON.
We found ourselves a log and waited for the sun to actually appear so we could watch it set.
We still didn’t know where exactly in the sky it was.
Somewhere over there, I guess? Also, is that rain on the horizon?
As more people arrived, the wind got up. Dust and stones pelted us.
And then the horizontal rain arrived. Luckily, it was fleeting and light.
The sky reminded me of England.
Finally, the sun appeared, dipping below the clouds.
And immediately sank behind a mountain. We’d waited for an hour and a half to watch 60 seconds of sunset. We left, just as more spots of rain started to fall.
Luckily, our driver was waiting for us in the car park cos as we got inside, the heavens opened. We laughed at those other people rushing down the hillside.
We went for tea at Grunge Burger, a very small restaurant that does unbelievable burgers. I got myself a delicious burrito, but looked on with envy at Andy’s veggie burger and home-cooked chips. He said they were the best chips he’d had on the entire trip, and they looked it. He didn’t let me have one.
Deffo recommend this place! The guy who runs it is lovely, and again I felt sorry for him struggling for customers in this new lockdown world.
Back at the hostel we booked ourselves two mopeds for the following day. There is a lot to see in and around Pai, so a road-trip was in order.
For me, it would not end well.
#VidOnTour 