It was nice to be back in Thailand.
For the first time in two weeks, we could enjoy a 7/11 toastie.
It was March 18th, and for now, a huge weight was lifted from our shoulders. We were out of Cambodia, where rumour of a border lockdown had been stronger than a lockdown in Thailand. This place had Bangkok and its international airport, so we felt safer and more able to get home if we needed to.
Flights with almost every airline were getting cancelled all over the place. Luckily, we were with magnificent FinnAir, who had pledged to continue flights out of Bangkok until April 1st. We had a choice: book the earliest possible flights back home – but pay an extra £200, or pay for the next normally priced seats and have 9 more days in Thailand – but take the very possible risk that our flights would be cancelled and we’d be stuck in Asia nearly 6,000 miles from home during the coronavirus crisis. The choice was stark, and obvious.
NINE MORE DAYS! NINE MORE DAYS!
So instead of catching a plane that night, we caught a bus. It was time to get a taste of north Thailand.
After around 33 hours of near-relentless travel from Phnom Penh, we arrived in Chiang Mai. First impressions: IT’S COLD! In fairness it was about 7am but Andy and I had grown accustomed to southern Thai/Cambodian weather, so for us 24℃ was shiver-inducing!
We were knackered, but thankfully we were allowed to get straight into our room and have a sleep. Usually you’d have to wait til 2pm to check in, but the wonderful staff at the Bodega were prepped – thanks to Corona, there were so few customers.
Almost everyone we had met throughout southern Thailand and Cambodia had mentioned how decent Chiang Mai was, for they had visited in a time of normality. We had not. When we awoke and went for a wander, the place was almost silent.
We had arrived on the first day of a lockdown.
The Chiang Mai government had decided to impose its own lockdown to prevent the spread of Covid-19. Shops were still open, as were any places that served food, but most other places were shut. We took advantage of the clothes stores selling cut-price goods like vests, t-shirts and a bag for Andy. The shop assistants were lovely – Thais were definitely acting warmer towards us than Cambodians in our final few days there. I felt sorry for their plight.
Usually, Chiang Mai is booming – so much so that there are two Bodega party hostels here. We were staying at the Old City Bodega, so we made our way over to the Thapae Bodega which had a pool and an old friend.
Gary! We had met Gary on Khaosan Road (my very first Thai blog) and when we travelled to southern Thailand, he came to the north, got himself a job at this Bodega, and settled in. It was good to see the mad man from Dublin.
As with our Bodega, this Bodega was very quiet. The lodgers here were clinging onto their holidays by their fingernails. Everyone was on their phones, and overheard conversations about cancelled flights were common. The pool was empty – partly cos people didn’t feel like splashing around, but mostly cos the water was absolutely freezing.
The ONLY upside of Chiang Mai being empty was that we could get some nice photos of the city’s beautiful temples, untainted by those damn tourists also taking photos.
Whilst on our temple tour, we found a Boots and finally got ourselves some masks.
These masks btw aren’t much use as protection from Covid-19. People wear these cos the air pollution up north in Thailand is pretty bad. Between January and March, a lot of forest burning takes place in this part of Asia, as people search for mushrooms (seriously). These masks are also popular with road-users – most of whom are on motorbikes, directly breathing in delicious exhaust fumes (electric cars haven’t caught on yet).
But still, we wanted to buy a mask. We knew it wouldn’t stop us getting the virus, but it would stop the locals from looking at us like we didn’t care about the pandemic, like we were only in Chiang Mai to transmit Covid.
Back in Chiang Mai’s Old City, our wander eventually strayed past Wat Chedi Luang.
Entry to the temple grounds cost us 80 baht – about £2. We had arrived at 5:15pm and the place was supposed to be closing. We were also both wearing shorts – which you’re not really allowed to do at Thai temples. And yet, we were allowed in – just a sign of how desperate for custom the locals were.
It’s a beautiful place. A lot of reconstruction has taken place, but the temple originally dates back to the 14th Century. And in the golden light of dusk, it looked impressive.
There are a number of shrines in the temple grounds.
Customary selfie incoming!
Here are 12 shrines featuring 12 animals.
You can make a donation to the area at the shrine that represents your zodiac sign in Chinese astrology.
The music really helped set that far eastern tone.
This large shrine towards the front of the complex was absolutely beautiful and golden inside. I wanted to go in, but as my lower legs were on show, it would have been disrespectful. I had a quick peek and I’d highly recommend a visit when the world is back to normal!
Chiang Mai is a party town, but not right now. The Chiang Mai lockdown rulings had banned bars and clubs – only restaurants were allowed to remain open. Some places (like the Bodegas) were getting away with staying open because they also served food, and had restaurant licences. However, they couldn’t abuse that loophole because loud music had also been banned, and the police were making surprise visits to hostels and party hostels in the area. There was nothing for Andy and I to do but go to our room and watch Modern Family and Karl Pilkington’s Idiot Abroad episode in Thailand.
The next day Andy and I were moved from the Old City Bodega to Gary’s Thapae Bodega. The Old City one was closed for lack of customers.
I wanted to hire a bike and visit Art in Paradise, a 3D art museum south-east of the Old City, where you can have those photos where you look like you’re in a massive room or being attacked by a tiger. Google was telling me the museum was still open, but I didn’t trust Google. I didn’t take the risk. I regret that. I’m definitely visiting if I ever find myself in Chiang Mai again.
It’s sad, cos it’s obvious with all the closed bars and temples and things to do, that Chiang Mai is such a decent place to visit. For us, it was a bit of an empty shell. Walking down the street, you were not called by masseuses, as all massage parlours were closed.
Again, I felt sorry for the locals. Chiang Mai is so dependent on tourism and thanks to the pandemic, many businesses would suffer.
For the rest of the day, Andy, Gary and I chilled at the Bodega, drank beer and chatted with other Bodegans about the plight of the world. Apparently, the situation wasn’t so bad in Pai to the north-west – and that’s where we headed next…
#VidOnTour 