In August last year, I climbed Snowdon for the first time. On that gloomy day, Brendan and I hiked up the Miners’ Track and descended on the Pyg Track – both offered spectacular views and perfect vistas (when the clouds cleared). Fast-forward seven months and The Walking And Talking Society were back at Wales’ highest peak and ascending on the Llanberis Path – the most popular and easiest route up, and the perfect path for first-time climbers of which our group contained two.
Now, Andy Cox is no stranger to a peak but his last hike was the infamous failed Yorkshire Three Peak Challenge of 2017 – a trek that nearly killed us. Whilst Brendan and I have quashed our dark memories by taking on more hikes and ordeals, Andy’s wounds have dissuaded him from tagging along. Until today.
T.W.A.T.S. has been stumbling through the countryside and up peaks for nearly two years now and we were still yet to have a female member. Ofcom had been on the phone to us about gender representation and, not wanting to conform to rules of patriarchy, we were desperate to bring a lady along. I managed to convince Hannah Done that the Llanberis climb up Snowdon will be long but easy. I also promised we could get a pie at Hafod Eryri, the cafe at the top. Gender equality is finally a thing in our Society. Oosh.
Oh and Brendan Clayton completes the party as you’d expect.
Anyway, we arrived at Llanberis’ Parking For Snowdon car park where it’s £8 for the whole day. Pretty expensive but still cheaper than the car park in Pen-y-Pass at the start of the Miners’/Pyg Tracks. And hey I suppose it goes towards trail conservation or some greedy Welsh bigwig.
After a round of bacon butties at the Mountain Railway Station shop, we scoffed at those boarding a train and set off on our own wheels i.e. feet i.e. we started our walk.
The Llanberis Path is approximately 4 miles long and it began with a sign. It was written in English, but also in a language called Welsh for some reason. It told us that this walk to the top would take four hours, and we may need crampons and an ice axe. It was 9:39am, and Andy revealed he needed a poo.
Just minutes into the hike and my teammates were tired. This first section of the Llanberis Path is arguably the most challenging! From the sign to the gate where you enter the trail, it’s pretty steep – around 350 ft. We passed the Penceunant Isaf (deffo had to Google that) cafe and agreed to drop by on the way down.
The coats were off as we left the tarmac through the gate. It was now pretty much a straight path to the summit with a very steady but long incline that snakes alongside the train line.
Ironically, March was giving us better weather than August gave me and Brendan last time. Not ironically at all but more fucking typically the clouds in the sky were just about shrouding Snowdon’s summit; this was my third hike up one of the UK’s “Three Peaks” and I had only ever experienced a summit in cloud. This was Brendan’s fourth attempt at seeing the view from atop Snowdon and he once again braced for disappointment.
There were a fair few other hikers (hence the trail’s nickname: The Motorway) who were treated to Andy & David’s cover of Bat Out of Hell and Dead Ringer For Love – when we weren’t using our walking poles as lightsabers. Meanwhile, Hannah was discovering that even on this “easy” route, climbing one of the UK’s highest mountains is never simple. I continued to spur her on with dreams of steak pie and hot chocolate at the top.
We came across a penny post. Hannah made me hammer home a coin which consequently dislodged a few others. Oops.
Around ¾ of the way up and nearly 2 hours in, the lazy incline intensifies at the Allt Moses section of the route. It includes Clogwyn – the final train stop before the summit. The path took us underneath the track to reveal a nicely lit Pen-y-Pass – a much nicer view than the one back to Llanberis. Also a good place for a photo (especially when we knew our chances of a view from the top were nil. Nada. Zero).
With cloud came cold. There was snow on the railway tracks. Brendan and Hannah were starting to lag behind so Andy and I had to keep stopping to wait for them – and that’s really not a great thing to do cos it knocks your rhythm. Eventually, I just powered ahead and had a nice 10 minute break on a rock. The views were gone now and Hannah in particular was pretty tired, but we were pretty close to the top and the steepness was relenting. But a terrible feeling had started to enter my mind…
We eventually reached the point on the ridge where the Llanberis Path is joined by the Pyg Track. It’s marked by the Bwlch Glas Standing Stone. On a clear day, the view from this point is a sight to behold. Today it was not. Snowdon had seemingly trapped gloomier weather on its eastern flank, and hikers scaling the Pyg Track wishing to reach the Llanberis Path were having to scale a snow bank – on which we thought it would be fun to have photos. Not at all dangerous…
My terrible feeling was eating away at me and I finally caved and got out my phone. The snow on the tracks and the fact we hadn’t seen a train in about an hour hinted to me that the cafe was closed. And I was right. Definitely should have Googled that before we began. I was disappointed at not being able to have a hot chocolate, but also feared Hannah’s reaction. I whispered to the boys that the cafe was shut, but the darn wind whipped my words to Hannah’s ears. She. Was. Not. Happy. I genuinely thought she might cry. Or turn around and walk home. Wracked with guilt I stuck to her side and dragged her onwards.
And about 5 minutes later, at 12:44pm, we reached the summit. And the cafe was indeed closed. Hannah’s sorrow was matched only by Andy’s agony – he had been looking forward to using the toilet. But we had reached the top in just over three hours, and that included many stops to take photos. Not too shabby! Now to celebrate with a hot choc- oh wait.
I substituted my hot pie dinner for a box of crème eggs and flapjack. Some fellow hikers then suddenly offered out some food as they’d brought too many and didn’t want to carry them back down.
They were from Caz’s Kitchen. The hikers were scousers so I deduced Caz’s Kitchen was in Liverpool. They call it a crack pie – a buttery biscuit base with caramel filling. It was effing delish.
Brendan broke out some glasses that make you feel drunk. Or like Andy.
After the climb, comes the fall. We decided to use the unused railway as an easier route down to Clogwyn, which meant we could play in the snow. A great decision!
We reached Clogwyn and discovered there was no toilet. Andy would have to hold on a little longer. The train was there though, with a carriage named Dame Shirley Bassey DBE.
Further down, we passed Halfway House again, and again, it was closed. Don’t even think there’s a toilet in there anyway. Discussion topics ranged from Andy’s bowels to which Harry Potter character we’d all be. Andy said he has been likened to Dumbledore because “he’s a dick”. Apparently I’m like Neville. Is that an insult? I know I’m forgetful but am I a buffoon?
At around 3:30pm we reached the tarmac once more and the steep decline was hard on the calf muscles, which had done their usual trick of turning to jelly every time I stopped moving them. Walking backwards downhill actually really helped.
We arrived at Penceunant Isaf (deffo just copied and pasted that) and settled down for refreshments. The staff were actually Welsh as well with Welsh accents. Obvs I had to go for a Welsh Black. Alas, it wasn’t that nice. Andy completed his 8 mile journey to the toilet and felt much better after his poo.
We headed back to the car park and drove around Llanberis, eventually settling on a the Padarn Hotel for some tea, all a little achy and a little tired.
T.W.A.T.S. had conquered Snowdon once again! However, I didn’t really like the Llanberis Path. The weather was clear for the majority of the journey, but the views on offer weren’t that spectacular. Perhaps I was spoilt when I walked the Miners’ and Pyg Tracks. Also, it’s too long, and if it’s the offseason and the cafe is closed, it’s a long, long round trip for hot food/a poo. On our way down, we spied another route that takes you westward off the mountain and towards Rhyd-Ddu and Llyn Cwellyn – a much more picturesque trail it seems. However, you can’t knock the Llanberis Path for its user-friendliness – it really is a good walk for not-so-experienced walkers!
Ha, look at me pretending I’m an expert.
Still here? Firstly, here’s a photo at the summit. Seemingly, I’m a mountain rescuer saving a lost and weary traveller.
SECONDLY. It’s May 2019. We have just discovered that Andy Cox had the shits because the coffee drinks he were downing were a year out of date. There’s only one Andy Cox.
Over.
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