Climbing Snowdon: Miners’ Track

Sleeping on the back seat of a Corsa isn’t great. My top half was incredibly comfy, but my legs, all bent and crooked in the tiny space, were aching. Just what you need before you hike up Wales’ highest mount.

Brendan and I groggily drove up the road from our private lay-by to the Pen-y-pass car park on the north-east side of Snowdon. As always on our T.W.A.T.S. outings, the day was gloomy and visibility was rubbish.

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Brendan was particularly annoyed – this was to be his third trip up Snowdon, and he was yet to see anything but cloud from the top.

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We found a gate. Behind it was a path that led away into the mist. At around 7:12am, we opened it, stepped through and wandered away up the Miner’s Track.

The mist was dense and droplets were blowing in our faces. However, fearing the rain that was potentially going to hit later in the day, I kept my raincoat in my bag so I’d feel some benefit.

The Miner’s Track is only a gradual incline to start with and it eventually leads you around the edges of some mountain lakes. First up, Llyn Teyrn.

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In the grey of the day, it didn’t look so photogenic. But around the corner from Llyn Teyrn, you’ll find Llyn Llydaw.

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And it looked spectacular as the clouds rolled off of the mountain and across the water surface. Spectacular views kept rolling into view before being masked again by a blanket of cloud.

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The Miner’s Track incorporates this land bridge which is pretty to walk across.

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I could honestly stay here all day. I was disappointed I hadn’t brought my swimming trunks.

Brendan took the opportunity to take lots of photos. He asked me to climb on some rocks on the water’s edge and I quickly realised my brand new walking boots were slippy as hell. Numerous times I nearly fell into the crystal clear water.

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Here’s me in front of a waterfall.

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And here are the remnants of the mine that give the track its name.

We left the shores of Llyn Llydaw and the gentle rolling track turned into more of an actual incline. The path was made up of cobbled stone, wet from the morning mist. I was particularly careful in my new shoes. Shout out to Brendan who lent me one of his walking poles – as the berk writing this blog packed EVERYTHING he needed with days to spare and somehow forgot his walking pole.

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I hadn’t researched the Miner’s Track – as Brendan and I only decided to walk it the day before. Thus, I was rather amazed to suddenly come across another lake this high up. Glaslyn. It was a beautiful aqua colour. Again, it looked so inviting.

But this was no time for a dip! The Walking And Talking Society were climbing Snowdon, and soon enough we really were climbing. The Miner’s Track suddenly sends you right up the mountain to join the Pyg Track, where having hands is advantageous. Before the climb, Brendan sent a French family in the wrong direction. We never did see them again.

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And now the rain was becoming a thing. It wasn’t heavy, but it was that very fine stuff that soaks you through. However, as we were so close to the top (and the mist had made me sodden anyway) it seemed pointless to stop and dig out my raincoat. Brendan thought otherwise and donned his trusty camo poncho – probably the most regular item of clothing on T.W.A.T.S. outings.

We knew we were near the top because we could hear the hauntingly spooky sound of the tram going up and down the track to the station. Scary as it was, it was also a good indicator of how close we were. Soon we reached the Llanberis Path – the main route up Snowdon.

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We were close. We started to encounter people walking down the mountain from the top.

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At around 10:15, we hit the staircase which led to the summit, shrouded in cloud.

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The summit, featuring the famous cairn and absolutely no visibility. Standard T.W.A.T.S. views.

We started to feel the weather turn. Rain had been predicted – proper rain. So we made for the cafe.

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It was an absolute God-send. I had an absolutely delicious steak pie and a scrumptious hot chocolate. Brendan had a pasty. And now I’d like to take a moment to address the National Trust themselves – what’s going on guys? Can we not put a cafe on top of (or near the summit of) Scafell Pike? Why doesn’t every famous mount have a shelter like this at the top? England, Wales have outdone you for your highest peak. Soz.

Anyway. As I was saying, it was so, so nice to take refuge in the cafe. We were sodden and it was warm inside. We found a table to try and dry off, and ended up staying for nearly two hours.

As time went by, Hafod Eryri became more and more crowded. Drenched hikers were joined by tram-goers who didn’t want to go outside because the weather had worsened. Usually in my life, I would without hesitation give up my seat to an older person. But today, when I had hiked for three hours and they had sat down for 60 minutes – I felt I had priority. Sorry, but not sorry.

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After a second helping of hot chocolate, it felt only fair that Brendan and I moved our shit and shared our table. Brendan went off to buy a hat and his seat was stolen. I did nothing to stop them but silently laugh. Feeling sorry, I offered Brendan my seat and sat on the floor and OH! This place must have under-floor heating! It was actually warmer to sit on the floor. No seriously, if you ever go up and you’re cold – sit on the floor.

After over three hours at the top, we couldn’t put off the inevitable any more. It was time to leave. I joined Brendan in buying a hat.

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We are the T.W.A.T.S. with new hats.

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Here are some dogs who have climbed to the top of Snowdon. What have you done with your day?

We (eventually) decided to take the Pyg track back to the cars. Brendan had wanted to go an absolutely ludicrous way home on the Horseshoe path, convinced that the clouds were certainly about to part and gift us with amazing views. However, I decided that I wanted to survive this hike. So we took the safer Pyg track.

The descent was fun. My shoes were starting to grip – perhaps they were too brand new earlier on this morning. We were making great progress down the mountain and the weather was indeed improving. At one point, the clouds below shifted to reveal a beautiful sight – the lake of Glaslyn bathed in sunlight. Everyone on the track stopped and “woww”ed – but as we all hurried to grab our phones, the clouds enveloped us once more and the vista was gone.

A little further down the path and it was a little clearer. So momentarily clear that Brendan and I had time for a selfie.

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Brendan Clayton Photography.

This never usually happens. Usually the day starts off well for The Walking And Talking Society, and ends in utterly dire conditions. Today, we were descending into sunshine.

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Beautiful.

I was quite gutted that we hadn’t returned on the Miner’s Track cos it would have been nice to dip my toes in the water!

The Pyg track was a great descent – very gradual with great views. Towards the end, the path steepens and becomes more rocky, but it gives you a nice view down Pen-y-pass.

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At approximately 4:30pm we made it to the cars. Usually when I make it off a peak, I think to myself “NEVER AGAIN” (although give it a few weeks and I change my mind), however Snowdon is such an enjoyable and easy climb that I could have gone up again, there and then. Instead, we headed into Llanberis for some fish and chips and a pint.

Snowdon? Completed it mate.

 

For those of you who have read these blogs before – you know what’s coming. I’m about to direct you towards a vlog of the tour. In 3… 2… 1…

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